Waɗanne darussa ne wannan tsibiri mai nisa - mafi girma a duniya — ya koya mana game da canjin yanayi?

A safiyar rana a Kudancin Greenland tambarin da ke kan rigar Ib Laursen ya faɗi duka. Zane mai sauƙi yana nuna wani dutsen da ke tashi a bayan ƙauyen Narsaq, filin dusar ƙanƙara na dindindin wanda aka zayyana a zaren. A cikin filin furannin daji na yi hira da Laursen, sashen yawon bude ido na Narsaq na mutum daya, game da dimbin hanyoyin dumamar yanayi ke shafar al'ummarsa. Sai na gane dutsen daya tashi a bayansa.

Yuli ne kuma a kan ainihin dutsen filin dusar ƙanƙara na dindindin ya narke.

Yawanci watsa shirye-shirye a cikin kididdiga da hunches, batun sauyin yanayi ba gaba ɗaya ba ne. Kuma ko da yake ina da wani abu na vistas na dutse mai tsayi da glaciers, na zo Greenland musamman don ganin ko tashar tashar wutar lantarki daga inda zan yi nazarin tasirin dumamar yanayi ga lafiyar duniya.

Lallai, Greenland ba ta da sifili don canjin yanayi, juyin halittarta na zahiri ga maziyarta na yau da kullun. Kyawun wannan tsibiri-mafi girma a duniya—yana tilasta baƙo ya fuskanci makomar duniyar nan a kowane juzu'i, kuma ta hanyoyin da ba za a manta da ita ba.
Ga wadanda daga cikinmu da suka yi nazarin babban bargon kankara na Greenland daga wurin zama na jirgin sama mai nisan ƙafa 36,000, kan hanyar komawa gida daga Turai, yana da wuya mu ƙi jin daɗin tashi daga jirgin sama da yin tuntuɓar ɗaya daga cikin mafi nisa a duniya. wurare. Amma kafin mu sauka ban san abin da zan yi tsammani ba—ta yaya mutane suka yi bunƙasa a cikin abin da kawai zan iya ɗauka shine yanayi mara kyau?

Kusan babu hanyoyin da ke haɗa wani gari da wani—mafi tsayin kwalta ya kai mil bakwai. Mazauna bakin tekun kudu maso yamma suna haɗe da jiragen ruwa na mako-mako sau biyu waɗanda ke aiki a lokacin bazara, lokacin da tashar jiragen ruwa ba su da kankara. In ba haka ba mutum yana tashi daga gari zuwa gari, sau da yawa ta hanyar sabis na helikwafta da aka tsara na Air Greenland. Amma ana iya auna ingancin rayuwa ta wasu hanyoyi.

Aasi Chemnitz Narup, magajin garin Nuuk babban birnin Greenland (aka Godthåb) ya ce "Greenland kasa ce mai matukar arziki." “Muna da namun daji da yawa, ruwa mai tsafta da iska mai tsabta—muhimman abubuwan da ake bukata don rayuwa. Kuma muna da albarkatun ma'adinai: zinariya, ya'u, lu'u-lu'u, zinc." Ba a ma maganar ajiyar mai a Baffin Bay. Haɗe, za su iya taimakawa Greenland samun 'yancin kai daga Denmark wata rana, ƙasar da ta kasance lardin mai cin gashin kanta kusan ƙarni uku.

Amma dumamar yanayi yana dagula hoton. Ruwan ɗumi yana nufin shrimp wanda ya taɓa cika ɓangarorin Kudancin Greenland sun yi ƙaura zuwa arewa, wanda ya tilasta wa al'ummomin kamun kifi neman kamasu a cikin ruwa mai zurfi. Hakika, damina mai tsawo ya ba da damar yin noma da kiwo a kudanci—duka sun sami tallafi sosai. Amma a arewa, tekunan da za a iya ƙidaya su a kan daskarewa a kowane lokacin hunturu ba su da abin dogaro, ma'ana farautar rayuwa - bear, walrus, hatimi - ba shi da tabbas.

Masana'antar yawon buɗe ido tana samun nasara tare da jiragen ruwa, suna alfahari da ziyarta 35 a lokacin rani na 2008, wanda ya ninka na shekarar da ta gabata. Tambarin fasfo na Greenland yana samun karbuwa a cikin jama'ar da aka yi-a-can-wadannan: A shekarar da ta gabata Bill Gates ya zo don tseren gudun hijira, kuma Sergey Brin na Google da Larry Page sun tafi hawan igiyar ruwa.

Gidan katako na Qaqortoq (Julianehåb) Hoton Jens Buurgaard Nielsen.

Kwanaki biyu a Nuuk, babban birnin Greenland da kuma garin da jirgina ya sauka, ya isa ya bincika yankin, ciki har da tafiya ta jirgin ruwa a kusa da, fjords masu cin dusar ƙanƙara. Da alama wannan tafiye-tafiye safari ne mai kallon whale amma lokacin da kattai ba abin nunawa ba ne, mun wadatu da kanmu da kyawawan kyawawan ƙaƙƙarfan ƙanƙara, wurin rani kawai da ake kira Qoornoq, mai ban sha'awa a cikin rana da yamma da aka kashe don ɗaukar furannin daji a kan bangon lolling. dusar kankara. Mun rufe ranar ta hanyar cin abinci mai daɗi a Nipisa, gidan abinci a ciki—kyafaffen kifi, risotto naman kaza, fillet na miski, da berries tare da madara mai gauraya, muna komawa otal ɗin da tsakar dare ba tare da buƙatar walƙiya ko babban haɗawa ba. Ɗaya daga cikin mafi ƙanƙanta manyan biranen duniya-yawan mutane 16,000-Nuuk gajere ne akan kwarjinin gine-gine amma yana da tarin jin daɗin halitta, gami da babban wurin ninkaya na cikin gida tare da gaban gilashin da ke kallon tashar jiragen ruwa.

Amma South Greenland ne, jirgin na minti 75 daga Nuuk, inda na kamu da soyayya da arctic. Narsarsuaq, filin jirgin sama na kasa da kasa kuma mazaunin mutane kusan 100, shine babban wurin tsallake-tsallake ga kauyukan da ke gabar tekun kudu, yankin da ke kan latitude daya da Helsinki da Anchorage. Norse mai shekaru dubu ya ruguje bakin teku, musamman a Brattahlío, inda Eric the Red ya fara zama kuma daga inda ɗansa Leif Eriksson ya tashi don bincika Arewacin Amurka, ƙarni biyar gaban Columbus. An sake kafa Brattahlío a cikin 1920s ta manomi Otto Fredriksen a matsayin Qassiaruk, kuma an sami nasarar sake kafa noman tumaki.

Maziyartan yau za su iya bincika cocin da aka sake ginawa da kuma dogon gida mai saman turf, dukansu an gina su cikin salon ƙarni na 10. Da take ba da labarin matsuguni a cikin garb na Nordic, Edda Lyberth ta yi hidimar abincin rana na gargajiya na Inuit na busasshen hatimi, cod da kifin kifi, dafaffen barewa, saƙar zuma da kuma ɗanɗano mai baƙar fata.

Na sami hatimi, musamman, mai wuya ga ciki, duk da haka ya kasance babban abinci na mutane da yawa.

A ƙasan fjord ya ta'allaka ne da Qaqortoq, gidajenta na katako suna jujjuya tsaunuka masu tsayi waɗanda ke haifar da bakan gizo mai ma'ana da kewaya tashar jiragen ruwa mai daɗi.

Wannan birni ne mafi girma a Kudancin Greenland, yana da yawan jama'a 3,500, kuma babban tashar jiragen ruwa mara kankara a cikin hunturu. Jiragen ruwan kwantena sau biyu a mako suna sanya Qaqortoq cibiyar jigilar kayayyaki a yankin. Fitarwa na farko: daskararre prawns. Yawancin kyawawan tsarin Qaqortoq sun kasance tun daga shekarun 1930, lokacin da Charles Lindbergh ya zo yayin da yake neman tashar sake man fetur ta Atlantika don Pan Am. Abin ban mamaki, garin tuddai har yanzu ba shi da filin jirgin sama - wani jirgin sama mai ban sha'awa, mai saukar ungulu na mintuna 20 daga Narsarsuaq (wato "Ride of the Valkyries") na Wagner ya isa, ko tafiyar jirgin ruwa na sa'o'i hudu a lokacin rani.

Zaɓuɓɓukan masaukin Kudancin Greenland sun iyakance ga ɗaya ko biyu a kowane gari, kuma ainihin asali, duk da haka sun isa ga matafiya na duniya. Gidajen abinci suna ba da abincin nahiya da ke da alaƙa da Danish; abin mamaki dadi reindeer da musk ox ne sau da yawa a kan menu, da kuma wani lokacin whale nama (la'akari m fiye da na sa ran, amma kuma mai arziki). Domin biyan sabbin bukatu na yawon bude ido gwamnati na kara kaimi tare da makarantar koyar da baki a Narsaq, inda masu halarta za su iya karatu a matsayin masu dafa abinci, masu yin burodi, mahauta, masu hidima da masu karbar baki na gaban otal.

Yanayin ya kasance cikakke yayin ziyarara-tsaftataccen sararin sama mai shuɗi, dumi isa don yawo cikin gajeren wando-yana ba da damar matsakaicin sassauci tare da abubuwan gani na. Yana da sauƙi a shiga tafiya ta kwana ta jirgin ruwa daga Qaqortoq zuwa Upernaviarsuk, tashar binciken aikin gona mai kadada biyu da rabi inda amfanin gona na rani ya haɗa da ganyaye, saiwa da ciyayi. Ci gaba da Einar Fjord mun isa Igaliku, ƙauyen da ragowar mazaunan Norse ke kewaye da gidaje masu daɗi. Mun kewaya da kango na Hvalsey, wani rukunin yanar gizo na Greenlanders ke neman matsayin UNESCO. Ganuwar dutse na cocin ta tun daga shekarun 1100 suna da inganci.

Kafin in bar Greenland na sadu da ɗan Faransa mai kwarjini Jacky Simoud. Mazauni tun 1976, shi ne jacky-of-all-ciniki a Narsarsuaq, yana tafiyar da gidan cin abinci na garin, dakunan kwanan dalibai da kuma kamfani, duk a ƙarƙashin sunan Blue Ice. Yana kuma yin balaguron jirgin ruwa zuwa Qooroq Fjord da ke kusa, inda glacier ke fitar da ton 200,000 na kankara a kowace rana.

“Daya daga cikin ƙanana ne,” in ji Simoud, yana tuƙi da kakkausan kwale-kwalen nasa ta cikin wani maƙarƙashiya na ƙanƙara zuwa ƙafar glacier. "Mafi girman samar da tan miliyan 20 na kankara a rana." Lokacin da ya yi tuƙi a kusa da ƙanƙarar zai ba da izini lafiya, Simoud ya rufe injin ɗin kuma ɗaya daga cikin ma'aikatansa ya yi hidimar martini ya zuba a kan ɗigon ƙanƙara. Babu makawa, a cikin cikakkiyar kwanciyar hankali, tattaunawar ta koma ɗumamar yanayi.

"Kyakkyawan lokacin sanyi sanyi ne," in ji Simoud. “Sama a bayyane take, dusar ƙanƙara tana da ƙarfi kuma muna iya kewaya fjord ta motar dusar ƙanƙara ko ma mota. Amma hudun karshe na hunturu biyar sun kasance dumi. Ko musanya dumi da sanyi.”

A saman fjord, hular ƙanƙara ta faɗo a tsakanin tsaunuka kamar bargon hazo marar siffa yayin da ƙofofin da ke kewaye da mu suka fusata kuma suka fashe a rana. Ga dukkan iyakarta, ziyartar Greenland tafiya ce mai ban tsoro zuwa mahadar ɓarna na zamanin duniyarmu da kuma makomarta.
Ba zan iya magana don hunturu ba. Amma zan iya cewa rani mai kyau shine lokacin rani na Greenland.

Idan Ka Tafi

Greenland tana da filayen jiragen sama na duniya guda uku. Baya ga Nuuk da Narsarsuaq, akwai Kangerlussuaq, wanda ke tsakanin Nuuk da Ilulissat (wurin shiga don yawon shakatawa na Disko Bay, babban wurin yawon buɗe ido tare da ƙaton glacier, ƙanƙara da sledding na kare). Air Greenland yana tashi sau da yawa a mako zuwa tashar jiragen sama daga Copenhagen, duk shekara. A lokacin rani, akwai jirage daga Iceland zuwa Nuuk da sauran wurare a Icelandair da Air Iceland. Akwai daga ƙarshen Mayu zuwa farkon Satumba, hanyoyin zirga-zirgar Iceland ba su da tsada fiye da tashi ta Copenhagen, kuma suna adana kusan sa'o'i 12 a lokacin balaguro daga Amurka.

Maziyartan lokacin rani za su iya shiga tafiye-tafiye, kayak da fjord cruises; An ce kamun kifi da kifi sun yi fice. A cikin hunturu, sletting-kare, wasan motsa jiki na dusar ƙanƙara da tsalle-tsalle ne ke kan gaba a jerin ayyukan, galibi ana saita su a bayan fitilun arewa. Yawancin masu gudanar da balaguro, kamar Scantours, otal ɗin kunshin da kudin jirgi amma suna sayar da rangadin rana a la carte bisa yanayin yanayi. Tafiya ta kwanaki takwas na Scantours zuwa Narsarsuaq da Narsaq ana farashi akan $2,972 gami da iska daga Iceland, ko $3,768 daga Copenhagen. Kamfanin Jacky Simoud mai haɗin gwiwar Blue Ice ya kware wajen harhada balaguro da fakiti daga sansaninsa a Narsarsuaq.

Saboda tsadar tafiya daga gari zuwa gari a Greenland-da yawa daga cikinsu ana isa da su ta helikwafta ko kwale-kwale kawai - jiragen ruwa na iya zama hanya mafi inganci don yawon shakatawa. Babban kamfanin da ke ba da hanyoyin tafiya na Greenland shine Hurtigruten. Tafiye-tafiye na kwanaki takwas don bazara na 2010 suna farawa da sama da $4500 kawai idan an yi rajista ta Satumba 30.

David Swanson Edita ne mai Ba da Gudunmawa ga Matafiya na Ƙasar Geographic kuma ya rubuta shafi "Karibiya mai araha" don Mujallar Tafiya da Rayuwa ta Caribbean.