Mai tsara zane ya kasance mai ƙarfin iko

Jean Paul Gaultier ba ya kallon kansa. Babu saman Breton, babu kilt ko takalmin sojoji. Kuma amfanin gonar bilki ya zama mai launin toka a yanzu.

Jean Paul Gaultier ba ya kallon kansa. Babu saman Breton, babu kilt ko takalmin sojoji. Kuma amfanin gonar bilki ya zama mai launin toka a yanzu. Maimakon haka, Gaultier, wanda ke sanye da kyawawan tufafi da baƙaƙen fata, ya fi kyau shugaban zartarwa na wasu kamfanonin kere kere na kamfanin kere kere, kuma ya rage rayayyun maganganun da ake yi wa mai zane-zane na Euro wanda ya yi wasa da shi lokacin 1980s da 1990s.

Yana sanye da suttura, hakika, a matsayin mutumin da yake: shugaban ƙirar kayan ado na duniya, gidan ɗoki da mai kunna kamshi. Sai kawai lokacin da yake magana - da lafazi don haka Faransanci yake kamar yana sanya ta, kuma tare da ƙarfin da ke musanta ranar haihuwar sa ta 60 - har yanzu ana bayyana Gaultier na shahararren tunanin.

"Ina tsammanin ina da hanyar kirkirar zane," in ji shi lokacin da aka tambaye shi me ya sa yawancin dabarunsa suka zama sanannun al'adun gargajiya, wadanda ba su da sha'awar salon ado za a iya saninsu - wanda ya fi karfin sojojin ruwan Faransa , siket na faranti-chic na fensir da rigar mahara, da rigunan corset, bras masu ado da kuma ra'ayin kayan ciki-da-na waje, kowanne daga cikinsu ya shiga yaren na zamani.

“Ban taba daukar hoto lokacin da nake tafiya ba amma ina kokarin shafar hotunan, kuma suna tare da ni na dogon lokaci. Na taɓa yin tarin da Indiya ta faɗa, misali, kuma wannan ya kasance shekaru 10 bayan na yi tafiya zuwa can. Kuma da gaske ne ta hanyar sinima na gano salon tun da farko. ”

Wannan tunanin mai kama da soso yana nuna dalilin da yasa Gaultier yana ɗaya daga cikin masu kirkirar kirkirar kere kere a cikin fewan shekarun da suka gabata, masu ƙwarewa wajen haɗuwa da na al'ada da masu wuce gona da iri, rashin mutunci tare da macho, mai girman kai da mara mutunci, ɗinki da kayan titi. Ya kasance, duk da haka, yana ɗaya daga cikin ƙaunatattun mutane; kuma wannan ba yabo ba ne mai sauƙi a cikin son kai da nuna son duniya ta zamani.

Maganarsa kai tsaye tana taimakawa. Ya zama bemoans, alal misali, gaskiyar cewa jaridar zamani ta zamani - sau ɗaya kayan aiki ne mai mahimmanci wanda zai iya bincika tarin abubuwansa - bai wuce kayan aiki na manyan kayayyaki ba. Ya ce, “Duk wannan bangare ne na talla a yanzu,” in ji shi. “Idan ba sa son kayanku ba za su ce ba saboda suna da wasu abubuwan fifiko - talla. Kuma idan wa) annan manyan kungiyoyin suka kira mujalla kai tsaye - kamar yadda na san wanda ya yi, ba tare da ambaton sunaye - za ta iya yin duk wani canje-canje da aka nema. ”

Amma Gaultier yana da rikodin waƙa kuma. CV din sa yana dauke ne da sakin rawa mara rawa; karbar bakuncin jerin shirye-shiryen talabijin (Eurotrash, wanda a ciki ya caccanza irin tunanin da yake yi); zane na zane don Pedro Almodóvar, Peter Greenaway da Luc Besson; saita zane - mafi kwanan nan don Elton John's Gray Goose sadaka ƙwallon hunturu; kazalika, har zuwa wannan lokacin da shekaru bakwai da suka gabata, tsara kayan mata na Hermès.

Alkawari ne wanda yake iya ganin gidan kayan alatu ta hanyar koma bayan tattalin arziki. Hermès, wanda ya sayi kashi 35 na kamfanin Gaultier a kan dala miliyan 23 (Dh84.5m) a shekarar 1999, tun daga lokacin ya sake sayen wani kaso 10 cikin XNUMX, kamar dai yadda ya nuna gaskiyar lamarin. Yanzu ya zo buɗewar kwanan nan ta Duniyar Zamani ta Jean Paul Gaultier a Gidan Tarihi na Fasahar Fasaha ta Montreal, babban faifai ne na aiki wanda zai zagaya duniya a cikin shekaru biyu masu zuwa.

Nunin ya nuna ƙarshen wani zamani. "Hermés kwarewa ce mai ban mamaki, amma barin babbar dama ce a gare ni in gwada wasu abubuwa," in ji Gaultier, wanda ya sa mataimakinsa da ke hargitsi yin wince kaɗan. “Da kyau, wataƙila ba ƙari abubuwa ba, amma don yin abubuwan da na fi kyau. Hermes yana nufin tsara wasu tarin abubuwa biyu, ma'ana takwas gabaɗaya, gami da nawa, kuma ina kanana sosai. A hakikanin gaskiya, ni mai damuwa ne. Amma har ma da mashinan sarrafawa suna buƙatar ɗan sarari. ”

Sabbin abubuwa sun haɗa da tarin La Perla - abin ban mamaki, layin Gaultier na ainihi na asali kamar na-tufafi - wanda alamar kayan mata ke sa ran siyar da fiye da 10,000 a fiye da € 500 (Dh2,400) kowanne.

Hakanan yana nufin komawa zuwa tsohon tsari yayin da, alal misali, Gaultier ya tayar da tsarin kafa kayan ado ta hanyar yin amfani da tsofaffi, gajere ko ƙasa da sifofin fata a cikin wasan kwaikwayo na catwalk. Bet Ditto, alal misali, ya haifar da jin daɗi a cikin basque wanda aka rufe shi a wasansa na prêt-à-dorter a watan Oktoban da ya gabata, yayin da Gaultier ya rusa yawanci august, yanayin da aka saba gani na watan Yuli mai zuwa ta hanyar samun burlesque star Dita von Teese. ƙarshe.

Tabbas, wannan taɓawar tawaye alama ce ta bikin Gaultier a cikin kasuwancin. Shekaru 40 da suka gabata ne ya sami aikin zane na farko tare da Jean Patou, sabo bayan lafazi a matsayin mataimaki ga Pierre Cardin, wanda ya ɗauki ɗan shekaru 18 da ba su da tarbiyya amma masu himma bisa lamuran zane-zanensa (Gaultier ya zana kusan kwalliya a duk lokacin da yake karantarwa, sau da yawa yana sanya su a baya a matsayin wani nau'i na azaba - gwargwado, in ji shi, wanda hakan ke ba shi irin filin wasan shahararre).

Abin takaici, ba da daɗewa ba Gaultier ya fahimci cewa gaskiyar salon ba kamar yadda ya yi tunani bane lokacin da sha'awar rayuwarsa (a cikin kalmominsa) da sutturar gargajiya ta Faransa ta yarinta ta fara. Ya riga ya fara lalacewa. Ya tuna da yadda daraktan lasisin Patou ya tursasa shi kuma yadda aka gaya masa ya kwafa shahararren zane na siket ta wata alama.

"Kuma na yi baƙin ciki," in ji Gaultier. “Me yasa za a saya daga Patou lokacin da rigar ta wanzu? Menene ma'anar? Dole ne ku ba da shawara wani abu, ba kawai kasuwa wani abu ba. Idan nayi komai zanyi kokarin yin hakan daban. ”

Kuma shin masana'antar kera abubuwa kamar yadda suke ada? "Kwarai kuwa," in ji Gaultier. “Babu wani salo, babu abin da zan kira salo. Wataƙila babu buƙatar salo kuma. Wataƙila zai dawo saboda har yanzu akwai mutanen da suke son akasin abin da suke da shi. Amma yanzu, don wani ya gaya mani cewa dole ne in yi wando ta wata hanya saboda wannan shine abin da ake sayarwa, wanda shine abin da ke faruwa da yawa a cikin masana'antar, da kyau, ba ni da sha'awar hakan. Wannan ba zai zama mai tawaye ba amma saboda ina son bambanci. ”

Bambanci, idan mafi yawan roƙo a yanzu, ya tabbatar da kyakkyawan tsarin Gaultier. Misali ya shawo kansa, alal misali, ya ƙaddamar da layinsa na iorarama lokacin da ra'ayin keɓaɓɓun kayan zane don kasuwar matasa har yanzu ya wuce. Ya fita kan hanya ta hanyar kirkirar layin kayan kwalliya na farko ga maza, wanda yanzu manyan kamfanoni suke kwaikwayonsa. Kuma hancinsa na Gallic yayi masa kyau sosai: shekaru 15 bayan ƙaddamar da shi, ƙanshin mutanensa Le Male shine mafi kyawun mai sayarwa na EU (za a ƙaddamar da sabon ƙanshin maza a cikin wannan shekarar), yayin da kwalbar Classique, ɗaya daga cikin nasa sabbin kamshi na mata, ana siyarda su kowane dakika 15.

Amma damar tserewa daga kasuwanci zuwa cikin duniyar kirkirar kirkira wataƙila shine dalilin da ya sa ya kasance mai sadaukarwa ga layin laulayin da ya kafa a 1997, duk da kasancewar yanayin sana'ar na ci gaba da raguwa na tsawon shekaru yanzu, tare da Gaultier da rashin marmarin lokacin Paris kadai tana da gidaje 30 da ke aiki fiye da mutane 2,000. Aangare ne na kasuwancin sa wanda, ya yarda, ba ya samun kuɗi, amma a kan haka, ya ƙara da cewa, ba ya buga asara shima. A cikin waɗannan lokutan masu zurfin tunani - kafin, kamar yadda ya ce, “manyan ƙungiyoyin zamani sun zo don sarrafa abubuwa” - wannan ba zai isa ba. Amma mai zaman kansa kamar yadda Gaultier yake, kwastomominsa 100 na yau da kullun, kowanne ɗayan yana iya yin umarni da riguna ɗaya ko biyu a at 100,000 kowanne, sun ishe shi.

"Wataƙila yana taimaka wajan sayar da ɗan turare," in ji shi, koda kuwa yawanci ƙanshin ƙanshi yana ba shi damar ci gaba da sutturar fata. “Amma kamar yadda wasu mutane ke sayan gida da kudinsu, ko kuma dan karamin jirgi, ni ma ina yin kwalliya saboda wannan shi ne burina in yi tun ina karami. Couture ya kamata ya ci gaba, wataƙila ta wata hanya daban, amma yana da mahimmin dakin gwaje-gwaje. Yana da ban sha'awa lokacin da na sami ra'ayin. Kuma lokacin da banyi ba kamar - urrgghh.

"Kuma gaskiya ne ban yarda da rigunan wasu tsofaffi ba, wadanda suka fi su, tunda na tsara su ne a kan abin da ya dace," in ji shi, yana ta faman kada ya yi dariya game da abin da yake na gaskiya. “Amma awannan zamanin yawancin kwastomomi masu samari da siriri ne. Babu shakka basa cin abinci da yawa kuma suna zuwa dakin motsa jiki sosai. Amma ban damu da kowace hanya ba. Aƙalla tare da sutura ka san cewa idan ka yi wa mace sutura za ta sa shi. Ba za ku iya faɗi haka ba game da duniyar zamani gaba ɗaya kwanakin nan. Tuni akwai tufafin da yawa a wajen fiye da wadanda za su sa su. ”

Tabbas, Gaultier yana da wata hanya don tabbatar da hakan. Yana da, bayan duk, yana yin tufafi tun da ƙyar ya fito daga nappies. Shin Madonna ta san cewa an fara yin amfani da rigar nono daga takarda da fil na tsaro - don ɗaukar teddy?

"Ah Nana," Gaultier ya ce, kamar dai yana tuna gidansa na gaskiya ne, wanda ya bayyana shi da "mai matukar wahala".

“Ee, abin takaici ne matuka don neman teddy bear, da gaske. Kuma, a'a, ba na tsammanin wannan [Madonna] ta san haka. ”

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Avatar na Linda Hohnholz

Linda Hohnholz

Edita a shugaba don eTurboNews bisa ga eTN HQ.

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